I'm not sure when my interest in small grocers became a full-blown fascination. . . Maybe it was when I decided to work for myself as a freelancer, and I began to empathize a little more with small businesses in general. Then again, there is something enticing about walking into a specialty grocer like Zabar's in New York City or Feast! in Charlottesville and knowing you are going to find things there that you can't find anywhere else, mainly, because they reflect the unique tastes of the community as well as what is grown locally.
Now, larger-scale marketplaces like Union Market in Washington, D.C. or Italian food mecca Eataly are becoming epicurean destinations unto themselves, where you could literally spend half the day, hopping from aisle to aisle or artisan to artisan and not just devouring food but consuming knowledge about food and how it is made.
Fortunately for me and the rest of Richmond, the city is now in the midst of a renaissance of sorts in the small-scale, urban grocery store. In the past year, several highly curated neighborhood markets have sprouted up on the scene, each as distinctive as the neighborhood they represent: Little House Green Grocery in Northside, Union Market in Church Hill, Harvest Grocery + Supply in the Fan, Saison Market in Jackson Ward and Yellow Umbrella Provisions (which has actually been around for quite a while) on Patterson Ave. Included in that mix is standard-bearer Ellwood Thompson's - we are all spoiled rotten for having access to a store like that.
Adding to the burgeoning neighborhood market comeback is Stella's Grocery (1007 Lafayette St., next door to sister restaurant Stella's), which opened in April 2015, followed a few months later in June with the arrival of Kohlmann's Market (109 E. Grace St., next door to sister restaurant Perly's).
At Kohlmann's, you can find cheeses and charcuterie galore, plus a wide selection of tea, sodas, wine and craft beer, plus Blanchard's coffee. They also stock items that one might typically find in a "regular" grocery store, like fresh fruit, frozen foods and household sundries, sharing shelf space with locally-crafted products from Maven Made, Pickled Silly and Texas Beach Bloody Mary Mix. Stella's Grocery is similarly stocked.
The main attraction, for me, at least, are the prepared foods (because, while I like cooking, I admittedly don't schedule the time in to do it often enough). At Kohlmann's, load up on house-made Summer Pasta, Chicken Penne Pasta, Tortellini Pesto Primavera, Orzo Chick Pea Salad, and Baked Mac and Cheese. At Stella's Grocery, you'll find similar grab-and-go fare, like Greek Penne with Chicken, Pork Souvlaki, Stuffed Peppers and Mushrooms, Heirloom Tomato & Goat Cheese Pasta, White Bean & Tuna Salad, Black Kale Salad, Greek and Mediterranean staples like spanakopita, tabouli, hummus and tzatziki, and more.
And the sandwiches. . . A quote from 30 Rock's Frank Rossitano comes to mind: "What's that? You've never heard of Sandwich Day? Why, it's the most wonderful day of all!" And Kohlmann's and Stella's have some tasty, freshly prepared choices, from Kohlmann's pressed Kuban and Kaprese (yes, spelled with "K") to Stella's Arnaki (roasted lamb, kasseri cheese, arugula, red onion, mint and Dijon on a baguette) and Corfu (feta, tomato, cucumber, kalamata tapenade, red wine vinegar, olive oil, oregano and basil on a baguette). Craving caffeine? You'll find some of the best coffee in the city at Stella's.
I know we are all excited about Wegmans opening up soon in Short Pump, but there is something special about walking around the corner or taking a short drive to your neighborhood market and picking up something for lunch or dinner. . . I'm sorry. I was just distracted by Stella's Instagram gallery filled with images of Rosewater & White Chocolate Macaroons, Baked Dill & Cheddar Scones and Fig Prosciutto Croissants.
So what was I saying? Oh, yes. . . Both Perly's and Stella's are beloved local restaurants, and adding a market component to each is a great way to make the distinctive cuisine that they serve even more accessible. Clearly, the neighborhood market "movement" here is on a roll, reflecting the health of the overall food/dining/restaurant community, which is pretty much anyone who likes to eat and support the comeback of the city of Richmond as a whole.
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