If it's not yet clear that I LOVE the south, then perhaps the next series of posts will drive that point home. I recently road-tripped to the lowcountry yet again, with stops in Washington, N.C., Charleston, S.C., Savannah, Ga., Beaufort, S.C., and Wilmington, N.C. I've covered a fair amount of tourist-y territory on previous trips (I used to live in Atlanta, so had access to the coastal deep[er] south more easily then), but I still trod some of that same high-traffic ground this trip, with some side excursions to see some things I hadn't seen before.
My most immediate, got-to-go-to-now visit (after a pit stop in Washington, N.C., where my brother lives in a prime river house on the Pamlico) was the Angel Oak on John's Island, about 12 miles from downtown Charleston. If you look it up online, Google describes it on its map simply as "an iconic photo opportunity of a large tree." That's plainly accurate, but I'd swap out "large" for "majestic" or some other sweeping word to describe this aged Southern live oak.
The Angel Oak is estimated to be 400-500 years old, and it was impressive to see it in person, to say the least. It's a stunner. I was there on a Sunday, and my goal was to get there as soon as they opened at 1PM so I could snap some photos before it was overtaken by sight-seers. Don't do that. Everyone else was thinking the same thing. After everyone got their selfie or group photo in, the throng of tourists and park-goers thinned out, and I got my shots (still had to erase/clone out a few objects and people). In sum, my advice if you want to see the tree is to get there at least an hour after it opens.
Caw Caw Interpretive Center
My next stop was the Caw Caw Interpretive Center, and while that may seem too "educational" for a vacation, it actually offers a great opportunity to explore lowcountry nature a little more, in contrast to the bustle and gleam of Charleston. I was told that I may see some alligators while walking around, and I was really hoping that'd happen, but c'est dommage, I didn't spot any. (If you go to Middleton Place, you'll probably have a better chance of seeing some lurking in the ponds.)
The Caw Caw Interpretive Center, now a wildlife preserve, is part of a former rice plantation situated in an expanse of cypress swamps. It features more than six miles of trails, with wetlands, boardwalks, and wildlife- and native plant-viewing.
How can you not be seduced by Charleston? This time of year (April), jasmine is in bloom, and Charlestonians LOVE it. It was covered on brick walls, gated entrances, trellises, wrought iron fences - just about everywhere - and the hot and humid air intensified the scent. Could not inhale enough.
I did the requisite tour of the Battery, near Rainbow Row and lots of stately antebellum homes and structures. Suggestion: Take a detour off the "main" roads re: off Bay and Murray and head down the alleys to see how homeowners have decked out their "backyards" and back porches. It's often with more southerly pomp than what you see on the "tourist-facing" street side.
The next day, I made my way to King Street, which is by and large the "Carytown" of Charleston, where you can find a mix of locally-owned boutiques along with regional/national retail shops, like J. Crew, Madewell, Blue Mercury, Urban Outfitters, Anthropologie, etc. I was happy to stumble into Roberta Roller Rabbit, where I spotted some boho embroidered tunics I wanted to snag, but resisted. I of course scouted out some new and old favorite bakeries, like Saffron and Bakehouse, both on E. Bay St.
I managed to make time for a beach visit in each city. In Charleston, my pick was Folly Beach. . .
My hotel was on the Mount Pleasant side, and I learned that the town had a seemingly new (or new to me) outdoor space called Memorial Waterfront Park, which offered one of the best up-close views of the Arthur Ravenel Bridge. (There is no way I cannot think of Thomas Ravenel from Bravo's "Southern Charm" - the bridge is named after his congressman father... Yes, I watch that show, and yes, I'll be watching "Southern Charm: Savannah" too.)
I had a full day-and-a-half in Charleston - not enough to see and do everything I wanted. It's never enough time to soak in this gracious, fun-loving, decadent southern city. Up next: Savannah.
RVA Food News
The Apple Cart
Let's Share a Dish